Lab test

Text: Elena Olkhovskaya

The sensation in Dubai! Two young Europeans - Fabrice Penot and Eduard Roshi - having made a perfume revolution in the world and created a unique collection of perfumes under the brand Le Labo, came to the East. The first and so far the only Middle Eastern boutique Le Labo, located in the Paris Gallery, in the mall Dubai Mall, was opened this fall. let's take a look ...

Translated by Le Labo means "laboratory", and in fact the boutique of the brand resembles everything, just not an elite perfumery store. This is either a chemical laboratory, packed with cans, bottles, scales, baskets with dried flowers and microscopes, or, at worst, a pharmacy with a strict seller in a white coat, who is also a perfumer, an alchemist, in general, the creator of ... hot-couture fragrances from the world's most exclusive brand.

How did it all start? How, when and, most importantly, why were the experimental laboratories of Le Labo created? There are many questions. We are looking for answers. A student of perfume genius Jean Claude Ellen from the French province of Grasse, one of the authors of the perfumes Armani Prive, Parisian Fabrice Penot, at some point in his life, moved to New York. He was supported by Eduard Roshi, a Swiss citizen fluent in six languages ​​(incidentally, Emporio Armani fragrances are his work). “Together we came up with the concept of alternative perfumes for people who, like us, are interested in the backstage of aromas,” Edward answers my first question, whom we met at the opening of the Dubai boutique. “We created Le Labo in 2006, and have never regretted it, because we were able to get freedom of action and the ability to create unique and fresh, new-sounding perfumes for those who are tired of following what the leading brands impose on them "

"Well," I do not restrain myself, "what is exclusivity?" “A fragrance is a fragile substance. It deteriorates from time to time, from light, heat. Therefore, we offer freshly prepared aromas that we mix especially for you and right in front of you,” says Eddie.

“Does this mean that I myself can come up with a perfume composition? Or is there something else here,” I ask, already insistently. “In fact, the entire line of our fragrances has already been invented and compiled by leading French perfumers. Today, there are only 11 Le Labo fragrances - 4 unisex (Oud 27, Patchouli 24, Fleur d'Orange 27, Neroli 36), 3 men's (Bergamote 22, Vetiver 46, Rose 31), 3 women (Labdanum 18, Iris 39, Jasmin 17) and one alcohol free for children (Ambrette 9).

All perfume components are shipped directly from French Grass, they are housed in giant glass bottles and are just waiting in the wings. As soon as you make your choice, an experienced perfume chemist who works in a boutique mixes them with alcohol and pours them into a bottle immediately before the sale. "

“Edward, please explain what the numbers in the so uncomplicated names of your spirits mean?”, I ask another question. "Thank you for asking. The numbers are the key to each of our fragrances. They mean the exact amount of ingredients used in a particular Le Labo perfume." “Thank God,” I think, “so you can choose Jasmine 17 and not be afraid of reproaches for not meeting your age."

And here the most difficult part begins - to choose the fragrance that really matches your own "I". Try Jasmin 17, like Sofia Coppola, or Rose 31, like Philip Stark? Maybe something else, like Uma Thurman, Kira Knightley, Leticia Casta or Isabelle Adjani? I stop at Neroli 36 - an intricate mixture of blooming oranges, roses, jasmines, tangerines, vanilla and musk with a kind of sunny floral character, a unique combination of freshness and tenderness, charm and elegance in one bottle.

Yes, by the way about the bottle. For some reason, outwardly, he very much reminded me of a pharmacy bottle of calcium chloride, which my mother bought during the periods of my many childhood colds, with a white label glued on it indicating the dosage. But even in this lies a special charm of perfumes from Le Labo. On my bottle with the magic elixir Neroli 36 they also stick the label “Created for Elena Olkhovskaya. Le Labo, Paris Gallery, The Dubai Mall "with an expiration date of 1 year. Well, thanks for the opportunity to participate in the experiment. My laboratory test at Le Labo was a success.

It remains to add that today Le Labo owns its own boutique laboratories in 13 largest cities in the world, including New York, London, Los Angeles, Tokyo, Berlin, Paris, Amsterdam and Dubai. It is expected that by the end of this year another Middle Eastern boutique Le Labo in Abu Dhabi will open. In addition, Fabrice and Edward just dream of conquering Moscow and St. Petersburg. But until this happens, each of you, our dear readers, has a unique opportunity to become the owner of the exclusive Le Labo fragrance, made for you and for you. In Dubai.

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